Unfortunately, not much single-pitch bolted climbs on the East flank of Jebel Rum…
Except for the followings, on the right end of the Main East face, on both sides of the classic Aquarius.
On the left, starting from the left:
Henngrint (E) – bolted single pitch – 45m – 6c – quickdraws only.
R.Botte, G.Egger, H.Gargitter, Ch.Hainz, C.Obrist – 1995.
Early morning and afternoon in the shade.
Petting (E) – bolted single pitch – 45m – 7b – quickdraws only
R.Botte, G.Egger, H.Gargitter, Ch.Hainz, C.Obrist – 1995.
Early morning and afternoon in the shade.
La Mano Negra (E).
W.Colonna & E.Lançon – 1992 – 120m – 4 pitches – 7b (6b+ oblig)
It’s a multipitch climb, but the nice big rings and the excellent rock on P1 gives a nice challenge with hard moves at 7b, BUT… needs few extra cams and nuts, otherwise it is too exposed…
Early morning and afternoon in the shade.
Note – unlike some climber’s claims there are no chiseld holds in P1.
Then right of the start of Aquarius (trad):
Chicken Heat (E) – bolted single pitch – 45m – 7a+ – quickdraws only.
R.Botte, G.Egger, H.Gargitter, Ch.Hainz, C.Obrist – 1995.
Early morning and afternoon in the shade.
Let’s cross on the other side of the valley, towards the long West side of Jebel Um Ishrin.
Not much as well… Or very hard, as for
Glory (SW), which is a fully bolted multipitch with 8a+ for the crux.
Not so far and north of Rakabat canyon. Morning shade
But lucky boys you are! P1 + P2 together give an excellent long 6c pitch starting with 6a for an efficient warming up session. Here below the approach & topo, by a click on the .pdf
FFA by the talented Ofer Blutrich on 03.11.2012,
with the help of his friends Malachi, Nogradi, Richman and Nisim.
Don’t miss his excellent blog!
KHARAZEH_glory_acces.pdf
KHARAZEH_glory
So guys, I know, still nothing easy, affordable… Be patient, and let’s go further on the other side to the East side of Jebel Um Ishrin.
Yes, here is the worldclass famous Jihad (La guerre sainte). The longest, totally bolted multi-pitch climb in Rum! Is it worth doing the first pitch? Not really… If you put you climbing shoes on, then at least go up to P4 – it’s 6b+ on P1 for an akward start, then 3 x 6b on excellent protection by bolts (glue-in) and slings.
Wilfried Colonna abseiling down Jihad on North Nassrania Tower in Wadi Rum
More to the right on that same face is Dar es Salam, with approach pitches on that big slanting flake/tower. Not very convenient for reaching the first interesting bolted pitch (6b+)…
Further to the North, passing the outlet of Rakabat Canyon after the big dune, keep walking along the valley, leaving the gap/valley/notch of Zernouk al Daber on your left. Soon, you’ll enter a secondary valley called “Ghôrj Um Ishrin“. There is a good multi-pitch bolted (glue-in) climb here, Black Eagle.
First pitch – 5b/c is not really worth doing. You can avoid it by a ledge coming up from the left.
But P2 is really good, and the hardest of that route, at 6b. No extra gear needed, just longer quickdraws, or slings, to avoid rope drag. Here the complete topo.
Topo route Black Eagle on Um Ishrin East side – Wadi Rum / Jordan
the next comes, with some nice things, and….. much more affordable climbs !
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