by vagabondsdelaverticale
Click on the pic 3 times, you’ll get HD details of the climb and scan it – amazing !
On the imposing wall of Jebel Rum, a stone’s throw from the village, a splendid and demanding route has been opened by the RAP FFME group ! A real adventure for this team of 6 talented young climbers, Eline Le Menestrel, Solène Amoros, Eloi Peretti, Romaric Geffroy, Guillaume Colin and Thoma Meignan who discovered the ground up opening, supervised by Jonathan Crison and me (guide) and Gaël Bouquet des Chaux (photos, movies).
A great team job, which reminds me of our adventure of “La guerre sainte / Jihad” with Philippe Batoux, Benoit Robert, Hervé Bouvard, Guy Abert and Alon Hod, exactly 20 years ago!
The “Heart Route“ is a fully bolted climb due to the compact nature of the rock. Bolts, glue in rings, peg-bolts, threads alternate for best protection. You need 18 quickdraws max, for P3 and P10.
Some longer quickdraws are needed for P7 and P8.
The bottom pitches are outstanding, on very steep walls and slabs.
Then follows a slightly sandy and strenuous overhanging wall; then two pitches on delicate but well protected rock before the headwall. A small 7b/b+ bulge enables to solve the problem of its compact stratum of white sandstone by surrealist balance moves on tiny embedded pebbles… Congrats!
The abseil descent (on chains) is good. From the summit, 4 short abseils (30, 30, 40, 30 m) on the upper part. At P8 cross 10 m to the north (bolts) to P8 to abseil on P7 (in the axis of P8).
From P7 reach P5′ by a 55 m free hanging abseil without any risk of getting the rope stucked.
Then follow the belays line of the route.
Practical infos :
– The approach from Rum village is 20/30 minutes long.
– The bag hauling is easy until P7.
– The bottom of the face is shaded at 1:00, the top around 2:00.
Arnaud Petit for the FFME RAP group
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