Un stage d’escalade pour les jeunes bédouins de Wadi Rum

Voici quelques photos éloquentes sur les protagonistes, l’ambiance, le rocher et les escalades à Wadi Rum.
C’était lors d’un stage sur place en mars 2017, avec les jeunes grimpeurs bédouins locaux regroupés dans une association – www.shababsahra.com
Wilfried Colonna, guide et fondateur de The Desert Guides Society, avait été sollicité par une ONG suédoise locale – Operation Mercy – pour l’animer.
Six à huit jeunes de la tribu des Zalabieh ont passé une dizaine de jours de formation complémentaire à des stages précédents.
Le thème en était le perfectionnement en grandes voies de plusieurs longueurs, essentiellement en escalade traditionnelle sur coinceurs, dite “escalade propre” (Clean Climbing).

The main team of young bedouin climbers during climbing course on March 2017 with Wilfried Colonna.

The team of young bedouin climbers in Wadi Rum

En voici le déroulé en anglais, tiré du debriefing effectué en fin de stage:

– Day 1. Climbing level check up, safety basics on sport climbs, intro to trad-climbing on “clean protection”, with nuts and cams (Um Zelighe).

– Day 2. Station/belay building + abseil basics, preparing for multi-pitch climbs (Um Razza – Eagle Tower).

– Day 3. Guding-assistance to Spanish TV crew on Jebel Khazali summit.
“Team building” on mountaineering route – up & down – with diverse rope handling situations.

– Day 4. More trad-climbing on “clean protection”, at Al Zholla cliff.
New spot for all…

– Day 5. In situ training for long climbing routes – THE HADJ (5c trad) on Jebel Sweibit.
Descent by Bedouin Route.

– Day 6. Short climb – SUNDOWN (5c & 6a+ trad) in Barrah Canyon.
Trad. protection, bolted stations for rappel descent.

– Day 7. World Classic MERLIN’S WAND (6a/6a+ trad) in Barrah Canyon. Trad. protection, bolted stations for rappels.
Two parties did not complete the entire route – nevertheless overcoming the main difficult pitches with the crux.

– Day 8. LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL (5c trad) in Barrah Canyon. Short trad. route, and first multi-pitch leading experience for one of the trainees. Afternoon on bold sport climb at northern entrance of the canyon – MY SOUL TO THE DEVIL 6a/b.

– Day 9. PURPLE HAZE (5b/5c) on Jebel Khazali, for leading trad. multi-pitches up to 10.
Great and positive leading experience on long route, for two of the trainees. Another, more experienced climber (Abdallah Dekhilallah), had two partners on his ropes.
Down scrambling and abseils on an alternative route in the… dark.

– Day 10. Short sport and trad. climbs at Um Fruth and Um Goor cliffs.
Escape and alternative abseiling maneuvers.